By Madge Baird
Two hundred Soups is chock-ful of tasty recipes utilizing beans and lentils, clean and frozen greens, red meat, bird, beef, fish, potatoes, tomatoes, and anything you will find within the pantry. From easy Asian broth-based soups to creamy soups of pureed greens and hearty stews and chowders, domestic chefs will discover a number of recipes and methods that construct self assurance within the kitchen whereas offering scrumptious, nutritious nutrients.
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It may seem odd for a boy from South Louisiana who grew up catching mudbugs in his backyard to admit that he learned about cooking crawfish abroad. Yet I look at crawfish very differently from most other chefs in New Orleans because I spent so much of my formative cooking time in Europe, where crawfish are relatively rare, held in great esteem, and generally called crayfish. French chefs would be amused, then horrified, by our practice of boiling crawfish by the pound, fearing the assault of robust spices on the delicate flavor of their beloved écrevisses.
Through family friends, I wound up with an internship in the Black Forest, learning from chef Karl-Josef Fuchs how to coax the sweetness and earthiness out of a braise of wild game and learning, too, how to create a true cuisine from farming sustainably. Karl-Josef either raised (on kitchen scraps) everything he cooked or bought locally, direct from farms in the Munster Valley. I realized then just how much I owed my grandfather, who’d taught me his ways of preserving the animals and produce he raised.
Crawfishing remains my favorite birthday adventure. Moving carefully among the tupelo gum trees so as to not spook the crawfish, we—a group of friends and someone’s father—would set our traps, basically a dozen cane poles with folding nets. It is so easy to get lost in the shallow slough that we would try to stick our poles in the mud in some kind of pattern, about ten feet apart, so that we could hope to find them again. We would spend the day with pails tied around our waists collecting those critters, overeager to check our traps, which could yield just one or two or maybe a dozen mudbugs.
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