By Lindsay Brown

Observe Rajasthan, Delhi & AgraSee the Taj Mahal in a brand new mild with a romantic dead night viewingAppreciate the stability of guy and nature at a Bishnoi villageNibble highly spiced bhajia at Delhi's bustling bazaarsBat eyelashes with camels on the kaleidoscopic Pushkar Camel FairIn This GuideFrom wasteland to Delhi: 1000-plus hours of writer learn, hundreds and hundreds of educate rides, a hundred sixty five tasty thalisBrush up on neighborhood artistry and choose up purchasing assistance from the Rajasthan Arts & Crafts chapterInsightful, all-new tradition and background chapters by way of a Delhi-based authorContent up-to-date day-by-day - stopover at lonelyplanet.com for up to date experiences, updates and traveller insights

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Extra info for Lonely Planet Rajasthan, Delhi & Agra (Regional Guide)

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It’s estimated that during the 1990s more than 20 tigers were slaughtered at Ranthambhore National Park and the last of the tigers of Sariska Tiger Reserve were killed in 2005. After the skin is removed, the bones inevitably find their way to China, where they form the basis of ‘tiger wine’, believed to have healing properties. The penis is coveted for its alleged aphrodisiac powers. For details on the recent tragedy see The Case of the Missing Tigers, p199. National parks and sanctuaries are proving to be lucrative hunting grounds for poachers.

Modern art, too, has its place in larger cities: try the splendid Juneja Art Gallery (p173) for a glimpse of contemporary Rajasthani art. Finally, mural painting, especially in the Shekhawati region, has always played an important part in Rajasthan’s artistic life. The region’s painted havelis (traditional ornately decorated residences) form a sort of open-air art gallery, with work in a kaleidoscope of colour and styles (see p283). If the havelis inspire you, you can try mural painting yourself in Jhunjhunu (p287).

Dishes you might come across include papad ki sabzi, a simple pappadam made with vegetables and masala (a mixture of spices), and aloo mangori, ground lentil paste dried in the sun then added with potato to a curry. Once rolled by hand, the paste is now often forced through a machine in a similar way to making macaroni. A common vegetarian snack whilst on the move is aloo samosa, triangular pastry cones stuffed with spicy potato, while another scrumptious local snack is mirch bada, a large chilli coated in a thick layer of deep-fried potato and wheatgerm, a Jodhpur speciality.

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